Packing up our home in Israel was surreal. Years of life folded into suitcases and boxes, goodbyes said to everyone we loved, and then the airport.

What we didn't expect was the send-off. A group of Hagi's closest friends showed up to see us off, arms full of gifts and blessings to carry with us, little pieces of home to remember them and our country by. We hugged, we laughed, probably cried a little. Little did we know then, this wasn't a goodbye for a year. It was a goodbye for much, much longer.

Landing Softly — Back at Leonora's

Arriving in Portugal for the second time still didn't feel entirely familiar, but it felt promising. Naturally, the first thing I did was book Leonora's place for our first week. We needed a soft landing, somewhere to breathe it all in, to sit with the enormity of what we'd just done. After our visit two years earlier, Leonora's home at Quinta das Tamengas in Tentúgal was the closest thing to familiar we had in this country, and that was exactly what we needed. If you're looking for a similar experience of warm, personal Portuguese hospitality in the Coimbra area, there's a beautiful selection of rural guesthouses and quinta stays near Coimbra. Compare rates before you book to make sure you get the best deal.

Leonora, being Leonora, immediately accepted us with a warm welcome and a festive feast just like she would with her own family.

While visiting the Coimbra area, we had to do some sightseeing and get to know the area a little before moving on.

A Day We'll Never Forget — Buçaco Palace and Gardens

If you're ever in the Coimbra region, please do yourself a favour and visit Buçaco Palace and Gardens. We went on Leonora's recommendation and came back speechless.

Deep within the mystical Mata do Buçaco forest stands one of the most breathtaking buildings we've ever seen, a royal palace originally used as a hunting lodge, built for Portugal's last kings in a neo-Manueline style. Stone carvings, grand arches, and stunning blue azulejo tile panels cover every surface, their drawings telling stories of days gone by. The surrounding forest was planted by Carmelite monks in the 17th century and filled with hundreds of exotic tree species from around the world, serene fountains, winding paths, secret chapels and viewpoints that make you stop and just stare.

If you want a local guide who knows the Coimbra region inside out, private tours from Coimbra are a wonderful way to make the most of limited time in this part of Portugal, from the university city itself to the Buçaco forest and surrounding villages.

If you want to make a full day of it and stay nearby, there's a great selection of accommodation in the Coimbra area, from beautiful rural stays to family-friendly options throughout the region. Compare all options before committing to get the best rate.

The Jeep Hunt — Porto

With the help of our wonderful new friend Elsa, we had a list of Jeep and camper dealers in Porto, our next stop. We'd rented an apartment in advance in Vila Nova de Gaia, just across the river from Porto, and set ourselves up for the search.

Planning a stay in Porto? There's an excellent range of apartments and guesthouses in Vila Nova de Gaia and Porto across all budgets. Compare your options before booking.

Short on time in Porto or want to see the city through local eyes? Private guided tours of Porto let you design exactly the day you want, from the port wine lodges to the hidden alleyways of Ribeira, at your own pace and in your own language.

Within two weeks we found it, a second-hand Jeep that ticked every technical box for towing a caravan and fit our very limited budget. That felt like a small miracle in itself.

One thing we learned quickly: equipping a caravan from scratch requires more than you think. We found ourselves at the hardware store constantly, for tools, storage solutions, hooks, cables, waterproofing supplies and a dozen small things you don't know you need until you need them urgently. A good travel backpack and a set of luggage organisers saved our sanity more times than we can count during those first chaotic weeks of caravan life. Online delivery was equally indispensable for everything from the smallest kitchen gadget to camping equipment delivered to wherever we happened to be parked that week.

Covilhã — Our Home Base at the Foot of the Mountains

Next stop: Covilhã. We settled here for almost a month, using it as our home base while we searched for the caravan that would become our actual home. Covilhã sits at the foot of Serra da Estrela, Portugal's highest mountain range, and turned out to be one of the most beautifully positioned base camps we could have chosen, with the mountains above us and the whole of central Portugal spread out below.

For those planning their own stay in Covilhã, there's a wonderful selection of accommodation in Covilhã and Serra da Estrela ranging from city guesthouses to mountain lodges and rural retreats just above the city with incredible views. Compare all options before you book.

And can we talk about the cherries for a moment?

The region around Covilhã and the nearby town of Fundão is cherry country, and if you time your visit right, and if you love cherries as much as we do, you are in for something very special. Starting in April, thousands of cherry trees across the region burst into white blossom, the whole landscape turns into something from a fairytale. Every year Fundão hosts a Cherry Blossom Festival that draws visitors from all over Portugal. We missed the blossom season by a couple of months, but we arrived just in time for cherry picking season, which runs from late May through mid July. We walked by on roadsides and were given a box of cherries straight from the trees from a local cherry farmer. The kids were in heaven.

If the cherries and the mountains bring you to this region, there's a lovely range of rural accommodation near Fundão and Covilhã and beautiful quinta farm stays in the cherry heartland. The wider Castelo Branco district also has some stunning agritourism properties and rural retreats worth exploring if you have extra time.

The Caravan Hunt — Hundreds of Kilometres and Countless Caravans

We drove for days. And days. We saw so many caravans I genuinely lost count. Old ones, overpriced ones, ones that looked fine until you opened the bathroom door, ones that smelled like someone had lived a very full life inside them.

One day we drove all the way back up to Porto to view a few more options and took the opportunity to stop at the enchanting Jardins do Palácio de Cristal, beautiful manicured gardens in bloom, perched above the city with incredible views over the Douro and the port wine lodges across the water. Peacocks roaming freely everywhere in the park. A little unexpected gem on a day of caravan disappointments. While you're in Porto, explore the city's best private tours and experiences, from Douro River routes to port wine tastings in Vila Nova de Gaia, all designed around you.

Found — In the Most Northern Corner of Portugal

And then finally, we found it. Not nearby. Not convenient. In Fafe, one of the most northern villages in Portugal, a very long drive from where we'd been based near Covilhã and Fundão.

We drove up over the Douro river, the landscape shifting around us into something wilder and greener, the river below shimmering blue between the terraced vineyards. It was one of the most beautiful drives we had ever done together as a family, and somehow, after all the searching, arriving at the end of it to finally find our caravan felt exactly right.

The Douro Valley is one of those places that genuinely rewards a guided experience. Private Douro Valley tours with local guides include winery visits, valley viewpoints and river routes that would take days to piece together on your own.

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Plan Your Visit — Coimbra, Porto and the Douro

Where to stay

For the Coimbra area and the warm, personal hospitality that started our whole Portugal story, Quinta das Tamengas in Tentúgal is where it all began for us. For all accommodation options across the Coimbra region, from city guesthouses to forest retreats, compare rates before booking.

For Porto and Vila Nova de Gaia, there's an excellent range of apartments, guesthouses and hotels across all budgets.

For the cherry region around Fundão and Covilhã, browse quinta farm stays and rural retreats in the cherry heartland.

Guided tours

For Coimbra, private guided tours cover the university, the Biblioteca Joanina and the old city with guides who know every story.

For Porto, private Porto tours let you design the day around your family, from the Ribeira to the port wine lodges.

For the Douro Valley, private Douro tours with local guides include winery visits and viewpoints you would never find on your own.

What to pack

For a move abroad or a long caravan trip, luggage organisers are the single most underrated item you will pack. They kept our caravan storage from descending into complete chaos from day one.

A good travel backpack that fits under an airplane seat is essential for the days you leave the caravan behind and travel light.

For the cherry farm visits, forest walks and mountain day trips from Covilhã, a waterproof backpack keeps everything safe whatever the Atlantic weather decides to do, and an insulated cooler backpack is perfect for cherry picking days and long drives through the Douro Valley.

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